

If you are running a red-dot, strongly consider an UltiMak scout rail: it puts the 'dot forward of the receiver, lowers it to about the lowest your can go without co-witness, and helps balance out the weight of the Mini. Sandog will undoubtedly weigh in, and you should heed his recommendations (and marvelous Mini-30s). A 4 MOA dot is easy to acquire quickly, and is available in red only or user-selected red/green. That made it less likely that ejecting brass might hit the windage knob, but also increased the ejected brass range considerably - which brought about a whole new industry of reduced-size gas bushings. Compared to its smaller red dot cousins like the SPARC AR or Crossfire, the Strikefire II’s larger objective and 30mm tube design provide a larger field of view, and allow it to be mounted at just about any height using most common 30mm rings. The ejection system changed from the ejector in the bolt to the ejector in the bolt-stop assembly. With the advent of the Ranch rifle, the eject pattern changed to more horizontal than vertical and Ruger put on scope-mount scallops. Those were never intended to have a scope (no scope mounts or scallops) and generally tended to eject more vertically than horizontally (of course, American ingenuity came up with a side-mounted scope mount that rests rather high (chin weld), but was the only option at the time were one to want a scope.

Much of the interference issue of ejects hitting a scope or 'dot sitting over the receiver stem from the early Mini-14 non-Ranch rifles (I have one).

I tried both, and prefer the fore-end: it keeps it out of the way of potential ejects and seems more comfortable for my eyes. Given the design of the Ruger-supplied factory P-Rail, your choices are either at the fore-end or the rear-end, but not in the middle. It mounts directly on the Ruger P-rail, and it sits pretty low.
#Vortex strikefire full#
I run a Bushnell TRS-25 'dot on my 583-series Mini and it is okay: not quite a full cheek weld without some form of a cheek riser, but great for snap-shooting. No experience with a Vortex Strike Fire, so can't help you there. Eochief, first: welcome to the forum from Central Virginia!
